Tips on Cleaning Drivetrain?

by 72andSunny on Aug 29, 2007 8:37 AM EDT

Quick update

So based on tips provided here, I hit off Home Depot for some eco-friendly degreaser, a small scrub brush and a bunch of disposable rubber gloves. I also knuckled under and spent $5 on a plastic cassette cleaner from Park Tools --- it has a thin, bristly brush on one end and a semi-circular handle with saw-blade-like teeth. Both the brush and teeth fit between the cogs on the cassette. I went with the less is more strategy and lightly sprayed down the cassette and worked the brush, then teeth in there. There was gunk and crud from the Mesozoic in there, but the brush and handle scraped it all out. Now my cassette is all shiny and clean, it brought a wee tear to my eye! I didn't degrease the chain, though, I just ran it over a soft rag and then applied some Red Lightning of whatever, then wiped off the excess as I clicked through the gears. My next diary entry: I've just moved to Portland, and apparently you need "fenders" and "mudflaps" in winter here? Even perhaps a rain bike? Rain cape? What's a rain cape? Oh man, I will need help with that. I can't buy a new frickin' bike, but I do NOT want to dump the one I've got...

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Couple of options

For a really dirty drivetrain, use Simplegreen and some scrub brushes. You can buy it in big jugs at Home Depot, along with brushes and a plastic buckets. Scrub down your chain, rings and cog, wash with the hose, good to go.

For a fast clean on the chain only, baby wipes work like a charm. They're good for the frame, brakes, derailuers, hell everything. And you can buy them in bulk at Costco.

"Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals ... except the weasel. "

by Drew on Aug 29, 2007 10:12 AM EDT reply actions

more bulk buy suggestions

Go and get some latex surgeons gloves and a dispenser of Gojo/FastOrange. Of course you could just rock out with the grease under your nails look.

by gravel road on Aug 29, 2007 11:09 AM EDT reply actions

I started using laxtex this year

and I'm amazed I didn't start earlier. I don't mind the residual grease under nails and in skin. You know, the first day. But when it takes three days to eventually scrub out, well, I'd rather avoid it.

by Sui Juris on Aug 29, 2007 11:17 AM EDT up reply actions

Phil Wood hand cleaner helps.

Vlaenderen die Leu

by Peter Fontecchio on Aug 29, 2007 3:06 PM EDT up reply actions

I second the Simple Green

If you have a workstand it's really easy. I spray some degreaser on the cassette and chain. I then turn the cranks backward and use a wide brush on the cassette. It gets the chain at the same time. A little attention to the derailleur is needed, too. Hose off the works and wipe down the chain with a rag. I turn the crank while wiping down the chain to make sure I get it all. After it's all dry make sure to apply some lubricant. I prefer Boeshield T9.

by johnw on Aug 29, 2007 11:26 AM EDT reply actions

Second the T9!

Started using it about 2 months ago and love it, lasts much longer than Pedros Ice Wax.

"Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals ... except the weasel. "

by Drew on Aug 29, 2007 11:50 AM EDT reply actions

re: Simplegreen

Just don't soak your chain in the stuff--I've seen it cause cracks in the plates of shimano chains.

For that matter SRAM recommends that their chains and cassettes NOT be removed for cleaning. Instead, they recommend a brush like the park one and a mild degreaser.

(Also, they encourage users to NOT try to degrease the chain on installation because they don't want the lubricant to flush out from between the pins and plates). This works pretty well with SRAM chains because the stuff they lube their chains with is fairly light-duty, unlike the goo that Shimano chains come encased in . . . Don't have experience with Wipperman or Campy chains.

For lubricant, I love Progold. BOeshield's pretty good, the Purple stuff is good too. The waxes only seem to last about 40 miles here.

by R Mc on Aug 29, 2007 1:04 PM EDT reply actions

Cracked chains

I've heard a lot folks talk about Simple Green damaging chains. The only time I've ever seen a documented case was a chain left soaking in simple green for a month.

Really, if a chain is so caked the it needs to be soaked for extended periods, the owner is probably not doing a good job of maintenance.

When I lived on the east coast, I only soaked my chain if I was waxing it. Which I now think is over-rated.

Regarding the fish oil that shimano uses to pack their chains, I understand that they have now switched to a lighter weight lubricant that doesn't need to be removed when you install the chain.

by johnw on Aug 29, 2007 4:28 PM EDT up reply actions

I've seen cracking

on my own chains--and I've never soaked one for more than 4 hours. Of course, that chain had about 4k miles on it and I'd clean/soaked it several times.

It'd be nice if Shimano went to a lighter grease--but the one I just slapped on my tt bike was still nuke-proof. Here's hoping.

by R Mc on Aug 29, 2007 5:06 PM EDT up reply actions

live and learn

Hmm, that's really the first time I've heard of cracking with such little exposure.

How often do you remove your chain? Did you add a master link to make it easier? I don't like taking any shimano chain off, if I don't have to. I just clean it on the bike.

by johnw on Aug 29, 2007 5:38 PM EDT up reply actions

wipperman connex link, I think

it was last year. I'd clean it about every 3 weeks or before a race, whichever came first.

I mostly use sram stuff now, and have converted to not taking the chain off after the guys in the shop convinced me that I didn't want my chain so clean that the lube had flushed out from the pins and bushings.

by R Mc on Aug 29, 2007 5:57 PM EDT up reply actions

There's a Lenard Zinn

column on this matter somewhere. In any event, Simple Green makes a bike specific product now (and it doesn't appear to be marked up with "specialty" premium, to their credit . . ).

by Sui Juris on Aug 29, 2007 8:18 PM EDT up reply actions

Microfiber cloth, soap and water

I usually wipe my rig down with hot water and soap, and finish up by spinning the chain through the microfiber cloth. If the chain is dirtier, I will use a really wet cloth, then relube. More often than not, a damp cloth suffices.

Typically, I'll just relube with a light spray on a cloth, and a wipe down. If I do a heavy cleaning, I'll spray the chain, let it sit overnight, then wipe it really well in the morning.

The bike shop guys convinced me that less lube is better. Most people overdo it, so I'm told. Less lube = cleaner chain.

I'll use the cloth on the sprockets, too. With the bike in the stand, just whip it through a few rotations. The microfiber is nice--it doesn't shred, and it holds all the gunk pretty well.

The chain never gets show room shiny, but it never gets that dirty, either. It's easy and effective. Also, I do this in my living room with the dogs laying around, so no solvents is a good thing--can you tell I'm divorced (haha)?

Also, I had a bad experience with getting a couple of drops of environmentally friendly solvent on a tire. It sat there overnight and ate a hole in the sidewall that I didn't notice until I made a two hour race drive the next morning.

-K-

by KevinK on Aug 29, 2007 6:58 PM EDT reply actions

Laugh at me if you like, but

I've come to appreciate those "chain cleaning machines" that Park and others make. I've got eight bikes under my care now, and it's a great time saver (tho' I'd also hang onto it if I only had one bike).

by Sui Juris on Aug 29, 2007 8:22 PM EDT reply actions

"chain cleaning machines"

I use one of those, the one from Park Tools

-- and I fill it with Varsol...!!!

I want the chain to be squeaky clean and that's something that can't be done using lemon juice ... then I use Park Tools (CC-2) Chain Checker to gauge the wear. I then quickly replace the chain once it reads anything beyond "0.75" this ensure that my cassette and chain rings last pretty much indefinitely.

-- for lubrication I use; White Lightning "The Legendary Self-Cleaning Lubricant" it's a wax lubricant ... best thing since sliced bread.

by orangekick on Aug 29, 2007 8:36 PM EDT up reply actions

White Lightning

Why go anyplace else?

by Tiki on Aug 29, 2007 11:23 PM EDT up reply actions

Does it last a long time

per application? I was using Pedro's Ice Wax, but found that if I didn't re-apply after pretty much every ride, it would go bone dry on me (usually 30 miles from home too). Is White Lighting better? I have always liked the idea of waxing (especially since I ride through the winter) because the dirt just flakes off, just grew tired of the constant applications. Also, do you have a good cleaner for wax?

Vlaenderen die Leu

by Peter Fontecchio on Aug 30, 2007 7:47 AM EDT up reply actions

I apply WL once per ride

-- and my rides are usually 3hrs plus in length

http://trail.motionbased.com/trail/user/orange-kick

The reason for using dry lube is because the wet lube attracts dirt, effectively transforming the lube into a lapping compound.

As for cleaning-- I have a high pressure wand wash which I use once per week, then dry, then I use the Park Tools chain scrubber filled with Varsol, dry, then I reapply WL.

In wet conditions, I use White Lightning Epic Lube -- and wet conditions for me is winter when we're waist high in snow. Using the dry lube in these conditions leaves the chain rusted.

by orangekick on Aug 30, 2007 9:11 AM EDT up reply actions

Hey now

Neat website ;-)

So WL Epic eh? I won't be racing cross in quite your conditions, but there's plenty of mud and usually snow in the last month. I'll give this a look, thanks for the suggestion.

"Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals ... except the weasel. "

by Drew on Aug 30, 2007 9:14 AM EDT up reply actions

my simple rule of thumb

wet lube in wet conditions -- dry lube in dry conditions ... and like I was saying earlier, using wet lube in dry condition, all it does is attract dirt which transforms the lubricant into an abrasive compound which dratically shortens the life of the chain.

by orangekick on Aug 30, 2007 11:19 PM EDT up reply actions

I used

a dry lube in wet conditions for a while. Even the bonds of motherhood aren't as strong as the attraction between that Northwest grit and my chain.

Got a problem? Va fa Napoli!

by Chris Fontecchio on Aug 30, 2007 11:25 PM EDT up reply actions

I used WL exclusively

back in my off road racing days, but then about 5 years ago they changed the formula. I can't prove it but I know they did based on an old bottle I had compared to the new stuff I started getting from Performance. The new stuff was nowhere good as the old, imo, so I got onto the Pedros ice wax. I still use that for cross, or Slush Guard. Works pretty well but I'm itching to try out the T-9 in crap conditions.

"Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals ... except the weasel. "

by Drew on Aug 30, 2007 8:58 AM EDT up reply actions

None of the waxes

have ever lasted for more than two hours for me.

Prolink and t-9, on the other hand, hang in there for a week at least.

by R Mc on Aug 30, 2007 9:49 AM EDT up reply actions

I've been chomping at the bit all day at work

looking forward to replying. I used to be a wax guy, but found that it would go dry at the worst times, especially after a cleaning and re-applying. Early this year I switched back to lube (Pedro's extra dry). The key I believe is to not over apply the lube (Kevin mentioned this as well). It is a magnet for dirt.
For cleaning the cassette, I will remove it and soak it for a few hours in Bio-degreaser or Orange Peelz (both Pedro's products. I just like them) in a small tupperware. Then I run each cog under warm water and wipe clean with a rag. Very easy and it comes out sparkling.
For the chain I DO NOT soak it. This is contrary to my earlier opinions, but I believe that it makes it difficult to keep all the chain pins well lubed if you strip all the grease by soaking it in degreaser (R Mc alluded to this as well). Now, I will remove the chain (Connex link is key here), squirt it down with some degreaser and rub it clean with a rag. This way the surface is clean, but the pins stay sufficiently lubed. This can be performed while the chain is on the bike, but personally, It takes about 30 seconds to remove the chain with the tool-free connector, and it's much less awkward to clean it while off the bike. Plus, this gives me a chance to clean the chain rings and jockeys much easier. The Pedro's stuff isn't cheap, so I use a tupperware that the cassette barely fits in, so there's no need to use to much degreaser. Also, I don't throw away the degreaser in the tupperware until after 2-3 cleanings. Honestly, I do the cleaning much less, since I have resisted the urge to add too much lube.

Vlaenderen die Leu

by Peter Fontecchio on Aug 29, 2007 9:28 PM EDT reply actions

the connex link

is such a simple and thoroughly effective thing.

There's always some sliver of anxiety about the installation of the push-pin style chains. But the connex link is probably impossible to screw up.

-K-

by KevinK on Aug 30, 2007 9:07 AM EDT up reply actions

except

for the few moments spent every time making sure that you have the correct sides up and down . . . what's the design reason for making the darned thing asymmetrical?

by R Mc on Aug 30, 2007 9:47 AM EDT up reply actions