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'08 Redline Conquest Team Bike Build

This Sunday I raced in the first race of the local 2007 'cross series. I've raced three cross seasons. One season on a mountain bike, the second season, I rode a Kona "Jake the Snake" cyclocross bike and this year I built a bike based on a Redline Conquest Team frameset and a hodge-podge of components. I wanted to solve problems I had with the Kona (namely too heavy!), and build a bike that could stand up to my 220 pound body, and I think I've managed to do that.

Star-divide

The Redline + Ultegra bike weighs 20 pounds loaded with the pedals, and full bottle. So far, it seems like it will easily survive a full cross season. I use the R600 wheels on my road bike, and they have been very durable. They survived a bumpy hard packed course with no problem.

Build, don't Buy
This article is more a write up on my methodology for building the redline bike, rather than a review of this frameset. My main conclusion is, if you're getting into cyclocross, you should probably build a bike (with the help of the LBS if necessary) instead of buying an off-the-shelf machine. I spent some time this summer trying to hunt down a good deal on a complete bike, and didn't find anything close to what I assembled in terms of price or components.

I realized last season, that a good 'cross bike (something I knew little about) is basically a good road bike (something I knew about) with a frame that has clearance for mud and nobbies, and a crankset with smaller chain-rings (e.g. 36/46). The manufacturers that offer complete bikes seem to have a different view. Perhaps they are aiming at a more general audience, so their "cyclocross" offerings are spec'ed out more like road/mountain hybrids, rather than road bikes.

A bike that's comparable in price from Kona is the "Major Jake", and for $2000 you get a mix of 105 and Ultegra components. A bike that's comparable in components from Cannondale is the Ultegra SL Si, which is a whopping £2,399.99! ($4800 the only price I could find online is in pounds, sorry).

The Frame and The Fork
I've ridden the bike twice, so these are my first impressions. I dialed in my position to match my road racing position with a 30 mile ride on pavement and hard packed trails and grass, then I did a 45 minute cyclocross race.

The race course had a little of everything: two techincal sections that required some bike handling: sharp descents through switchback turns, and two sets of stairs that required dismounts, two long straightaways, and one section with several 180 degree turns.

We've had perfect autumn weather here in northeast Ohio, so the course was dry, and the soil broke down to a fine powder as the field pounded through corners and over the crest of small rises.

The Redline frame is lightweight Scandium tubing and is extremely stiff. It did not budge under maximum torque. I went with 700x34 Vittoria tires, and pumped them to 90 PSI for this course. Stiff frame + hard tires + dry course should be a bone rattling combination. Nope. The Ritchey WCS carbon fork soaked up the bumps on the straightaways, even at full speed.

The bike was very stable and went exactly where I pointed it on the switchback descents, and along an off-camber "cliff-side" section of the course. I was happily able to make quick course corrections several times, and avoiding running into people and obstacles. It was a little truck-like through the 180 degree turns.

The frame is cleanly assembled, light, and worked well with all my components. The top tube is ergonomically designed to be carried on the shoulder--that was actually noticeable during the race.

My conclusion is the star of the bike is the carbon fork. I really appreciated the light front end when running up the stairs. If I build another 'cross bike any time soon, I'll use another Ritchey carbon fork, and I'd probably use another Redline frameset.

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So all told what kind of price tag did you
end up with putting it all together?
Los Cabra Montesa's

by Clydesdale on Sep 24, 2007 12:53 PM EDT reply actions  

around $2K
I think (I haven't totalled up the stack of invoices--I'll do that tonight and update here). The frame was about $800 with shipping.

My LBS charged $130 to assemble everything. Initially I was going to just have them do the headset--I don't have those tools. I just turned the whole job over to them, and picked it up the next day. I like wrenching on my bikes, but not that much.

-K-

by KevinK on Sep 24, 2007 1:53 PM EDT up reply actions  

That course looks and sounds
like a lot of fun. What class were you racing in?
"Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals ... except the weasel. "

by Drew on Sep 24, 2007 1:32 PM EDT reply actions  

I do the "B" race
though I'm more of a "B-" haha. The "A" field included the men's national elite road champion for this season.

My goal for the start of the season is to not get lapped. I almost did it, but got caught right at the end by the leaders of the field.

I am ahead of where I was at the end of last season. The lighter bike makes a big difference. I was actually running up the stairs this year instead of loping, or using my bike as a walker.

This course is probably my favorite of the whole series. The technical section, with the switchbacks, is genuinely fun.

-K-

by KevinK on Sep 24, 2007 2:03 PM EDT up reply actions  

B's are always competetive
Good job by you. The bike is sweet looking and at 20lbs is damn near as light as a road bike. Excellent choice.
"Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals ... except the weasel. "

by Drew on Sep 24, 2007 2:49 PM EDT up reply actions  

Some very nice pictures of
what the pros are running
"Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals ... except the weasel. "

by Drew on Sep 24, 2007 1:39 PM EDT reply actions  

Nice article
Seriously, this is great stuff.  Would love to see more like this around here.

(Except you should wrench your own bike, you lazy sod.)

by Sui Juris on Sep 24, 2007 9:47 PM EDT reply actions  

haha
I intended to go the "do it yourself" route, but lacked the headset tools. Once the frame was in the shop, it seemed so much easier for me to do nothing, and them to do everything.

I did spend at least another hour tweaking and shuffling the bars around. Plus the mechanic installed the conneX link upside-down (a previous discussion here about that topic was fresh in my mind) so my hands actually did get dirty.

I also noticed that they used a whole assload of loctite on the BB. I think bike shops must use 50% of the world's loctite supply.

-K-

by KevinK on Sep 25, 2007 10:12 AM EDT up reply actions  

Last season I did the same thing
But I beat your price by about seven hundred dollars. Largely this was achieved by buying an unused but second-hand Giant TCX frame from a San Francisco Craigs List. I paid $400 for the frame, sight unseen, and it arrived mint, unscratched and unridden, not even very dusty, in a padded box (with Giant carbon fork which is very nice). Sorry, but I like the Giant stuff over the Redline.

Similarly, I bought a pair of Dura-Ace wheels (about four years old) off eBay for a couple hundred bucks. They've since withstood about a thousand miles of on and offroad riding without complaint.

I bought a pair of high-end British brakes--Empella Doglegs--for a hundred bucks, but eventually scrapped them because they sucked so bad and replaced them with a $40 pair.

Anyway, you don't need to hear about all the other stuff--Ultegra compact, mostly Ultegra other stuff with 105 shifters and DuraAce here and there.

Anyway, I agree:  a build-up is the way to go, but use eBay, and you'll save 40% on some items.  

by Tiki on Sep 24, 2007 10:07 PM EDT reply actions  

minor point
Empella's belgian . . .

by R Mc on Sep 24, 2007 10:15 PM EDT up reply actions  

No wonder they didn't work
Damn factory monks probably drunk on beer again.

by Tiki on Sep 25, 2007 1:31 AM EDT up reply actions  

I spent more than I planned
It's definitely possible to do it cheaper and get the same (or better) results.

I was looking at the Giant frames initially. I like them. I'm used to the compact frame design for the road; it seems like an even better fit for 'cross. Maybe I'll go that route next year. I finally have a good stable of bikes and components and wheels, so I can just swap the frames. Several people around here are riding Redlines, so I had a chance to get a good look. That's what sold me.

The cyclocross boom is pretty interesting. The cross races I've been to are slightly better attended by racers and spectators than the local road races. (Both road and cross seem to be at a low ebb in popularity in northeast ohio--I notice that the field is graying.)

The manufacturers seem to be fairly far behind the curve. It seems necessary to put in some work to get a good bike.

-K-

by KevinK on Sep 25, 2007 10:20 AM EDT up reply actions  

I think cross attracts people for two reasons
It's interesting - riding modified road bikes off road in sometimes attrocious weather? Excellent!

Also, because of the nature of the course it's easy to watch 3/4 of a the race from one spot. If you are in the mood for just a bit of jogging you can see usually see the entire race from two spots.

Spectacle + ease of viewing + potentially terrible conditions = terrific fan turnout.

There's a reason 2500+ people turn up in Gloucester, MA every year for the men's elite race. And why 15,000 Belgians will turn out for a UCI race.

"Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals ... except the weasel. "

by Drew on Sep 25, 2007 11:12 AM EDT reply actions  

Buy vs. Build
Normally I would agree that building cross bike from the frame up is the way to go but there are signs that industry offerings are improving.  The 2008 Trek XO2 and Jamis Supernova are two examples.  Both are $2000 or less and both come with SRAM Rival and a nice package of parts.  The Trek even comes with a set of really nice Bontrager Race X Lite wheels.  

I plan on getting the TREK as soon as it's available (November) and modifying it slightly to make it a 1x10 drive train.  This should be a lot cheaper than building something comparable.

Just a suggestion:
Try running a lower tire pressure.  90 PSI is really hard for any conditions.  I have a set of Maxxis Raze clinchers and have been using them between 40 and 50 PSI.

by pbrmeasap on Sep 26, 2007 12:49 PM EDT reply actions  

I lucked into a super sweet deal
when I first started racing 4 years ago. Our shop and team sponsor was hooking me up with Fuji's cross offering (or so we both thought). About 2 weeks before my first race the shop owner got a call from Fuji saying the bikes wouldn't arrive until the end of November (D'oh!).

I'm bummed, shop owner says don't worry he's going to Interbike the next day (score!). He comes back a week later with a fully built Ventana El Martillo cross bike. 105 drivetrain, Avid breaks, Ritchey OCR wheels. I give him my old 1998 Rocky Mountain road bike + $600 cash and we call it square.

And it's still running like a champ 20 races and 3 winters later.

"Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals ... except the weasel. "

by Drew on Sep 26, 2007 1:44 PM EDT reply actions  

Nice
I'll never understand why bike companies can't get their production schedules in order when it comes to cross season.  

Every year, Trek and Cannondale run out of current year cross bikes in early August and don't start supplying shops with next years bikes until November.  How does it make sense to not have bikes to sell when demand is the highest?

by pbrmeasap on Sep 26, 2007 3:20 PM EDT up reply actions  

Nother reason X attracts people, or at least me
Is you basically build up your bike with the same parts you use on your $3k-$4k road bike, except instead of babying the thing and worrying that you might wipe out at a local race and ruin everything, you take it to a crap track, cover it in mud, and ride like a maniac until you wipe out. Then you pick up your tough-ass vehicle, hop back on without even looking to see if anything's broke (well, no more than a quick once over), and you're off again.

Also, buying a decent cross bike is the perfect way to buy a road bike you can ride in rain and snow and also developing world cities.

by Tiki on Sep 26, 2007 7:10 PM EDT reply actions  

I'm starting to gather a nice
collection of components that will go on my 2008 'cross bike.  I have shifters and derailleurs that are ready to make the transition (Centaur), plenty of bars and stems to chose from (Most likely Richey WCS), and a set of Proton wheels that will be perfect when I get around to scoring a frame.  What type of gear ratio's do you guys run?  Chainrings? Cogs?  
Vlaenderen die Leu

by Peter Fontecchio on Sep 26, 2007 9:14 PM EDT up reply actions  

I run a fairly standard set up
48x36 chainrings, 12x26 cogs. If I need something smaller than the 26 I should most likely be running at that point anyway, and I have yet employ the 48x12 in a sprint.
"Weaseling out of things is important to learn. It's what separates us from the animals ... except the weasel. "

by Drew on Sep 27, 2007 10:42 AM EDT reply actions  

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