Brake pads...

by ssmith on May 7, 2008 12:29 AM EDT

Hi-
Here's my situation. Training wheels = alu clincher. Race wheels = carbon tubulars. I'm too lazy and cheap to swap brake pads before/after each race, but the regular rubber is quickly destroyed by the carbon. Any suggestions for good pads that work well for both?
thx-
s

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You use brake pads?

Pansy.

This sounds like a job for Van Pete........

"Resistance Is Futile. You Will Be Assimilated"

by Drew on May 7, 2008 8:52 AM EDT reply actions

All my wheels are aluminum but

These might work.

http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Brake+Pads+pair&vendorCode=ZIPP&ma jor=1&minor=8

Mixed reviews but they might be worth a try.

Vlaenderen die Leu

by Peter Fontecchio on May 7, 2008 9:01 AM EDT reply actions

Sort of a tangent...

I just wore out a Bontrager SSR rim (aluminum). The brake surface is worn concave. I put about 12-13K miles in 18 months on the rims.

I do ride into Rock Creek Park everyday down a 20+% grade for about 1/2 a mile with a full stop at the bottom, but really? I've never worn out a rim before, I usually wreck 'em doing something stupid.

by rocketpress on May 7, 2008 10:11 AM EDT reply actions

Do they heat up?

I wore a little wrinkle into my Ksyriums over a weekend in West Virginia with a lot of short, awful descents. Rims got hot enough to fry eggs.

"If writing too much about the classics is wrong, I don't want to be right."

by Chris Fontecchio on May 7, 2008 7:55 PM EDT up reply actions

Yup.

That's what happened in the end. The braking surface wore pretty thin and then started warping.

I actually saw a little steam coming off them one cold, wet morning a few months ago.

by rocketpress on May 7, 2008 10:22 PM EDT up reply actions

Short awful descents?

It sounds like your neighborhood. My hands are still sore from squeezing the brakes so hard.

Vlaenderen die Leu

by Peter Fontecchio on May 8, 2008 6:32 AM EDT up reply actions

True

Though in Seattle you can count on some nice cool rain to temper the rims.

"If writing too much about the classics is wrong, I don't want to be right."

by Chris Fontecchio on May 8, 2008 8:06 PM EDT up reply actions

That's a lot of miles though

and you have to figure in the conditions you were riding and braking in. I've worn out mt. bike rims like that back when I was racing and training on the same hoops.

Given enough grit and pressure you can wear out anything.

"Resistance Is Futile. You Will Be Assimilated"

by Drew on May 7, 2008 10:18 AM EDT reply actions

SwissStop

Work well on both. Just make sure that you check the pad for aluminum chunks before putting on your carbon wheels. Nothing like a nice gouge on the rim to brighten your day.

by australopithecine on May 7, 2008 12:45 PM EDT reply actions

ditto

what he said--

by R Mc on May 7, 2008 12:52 PM EDT up reply actions

Zipp Carbon

I use Zipp carbon compound pads on my Blackwells. They claim that they work on Al as well, but I haven't tried it.

I'd be extremely careful about using the same pads on Al and C wheels. The Al wheels can/may leave behind small Al shards in the pads that will wreak havoc on your C wheels.

I just have two sets of shoes. One that holds the pads for the C wheels, and one that holds the pads for the Al wheels. Changing the shoes is a 5 minute operation. And it's a lot cheaper than my Blackwells.

by johnw on May 7, 2008 2:13 PM EDT reply actions

I concur

2 sets of pads/shoes is the best idea. I only run one. It is due to time on race day. If I am out warming up on the road on aluminum wheels then I don't want to arrive back at the start and have to change pads before the race. Checking the pads for blatant shards is easier than setting up brakes right before a race. Anyone else have this issue?

by australopithecine on May 7, 2008 3:57 PM EDT up reply actions

here is a response

From a friend of mine who is my tech guru who runs aluminum and Zipp carbon wheels frequently:

Two issues wrt carbon rims: (1) they are grabby, so carbon-specifc pads tend to be a bit softer with less braking power...and, (2) they are expensive, so it doesn't make a lot of sense to allow small aluminum shards to eat into the brake track--and that's exactly what happens, even if you can't see the shards in your alu-specific brake pads.

I've used Swiss-stop yellow on alu rims, and they don't work as well as traditional blocks. But they work.

The only real answer to his question is separate pads...or separate pads/shoes. Koolstop makes relatively lightweight aftermarket shoes, and I've found it's easier to change shoes instead of pads (esp. on campy). Don't be fooled by the Koolstop warning that their shoes don't work w/ the campy skeleton brakes--they do, you just have to use your campy bolts/nuts/washers.

Vlaenderen die Leu

by Peter Fontecchio on May 7, 2008 3:44 PM EDT reply actions