Riding to Madonna del Ghisallo
by Tifosa on Oct 15, 2009 7:33 PM EDT
37 comments
The signature climb of this weekend's Giro di Lombardia is the climb from Bellagio to the chapel of the Madonna del Ghisallo, designated by Pope Pius XII in 1949 as the patron saint of cycling.
The climb itself lacks the mythical status of the Gavia or the Stelvio, but it's a challenging and breathtakingly beautiful ride. More importantly, it is a pilgrimage, to a shrine both religious and secular, quintessentially Italian, but welcoming to cycling fans from the world over.
More on the flip...
When I did this ride, in 2005, we started with a 30-kilometer ride around Lake Como from the town of Como to Bellagio, where the climb begins.
The first half of the 10-kilometer climb is very steep, with an average grade of around 9%, and short stretches of 14%. Then there are a couple of easy kilometers, with false flat and even some downhill, before the tough last two kilometers. As you navigate the switchbacks, the views of the lake are spectacular.
Outside the chapel, busts of Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartali, Italy's two greatest cycling champions, hold court.
Inside the tiny chapel, the walls are lined with small, memorial portraits of cyclists of the past, and with bikes. The bikes of Coppi and Bartali, Il Campionissimo and Il Pio, occupy the favored spots on either side, closest to the altar.
The bikes of Eddy Merckx and Fausto Coppi: 
The bikes of Gino Bartali and Fiorenzo Magni: 
1984 Aero: The bike Francesco Moser rode to break the hour record: 
The back wall of the chapel is decorated with champions' jerseys, with the top spots reserved for the maillots jaune of -- who else? -- Coppi and Bartali. 
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Oh my.
Those last pictures . . . pure porn.
by Sui Juris on Oct 15, 2009 8:02 PM EDT reply actions 0 recs
damn…Como beats Calhoun! ;)
I'm feverished, or the way you want to spell it
by plinytheelder on Oct 15, 2009 8:38 PM EDT reply actions 0 recs
Love it
a church that accepts that marriage-vow-breaking Coppi! Thankfully times have changed.
ABRUZZIAM...uh oh
by Chris... on Oct 15, 2009 8:49 PM EDT reply actions 0 recs
There's poetry in this ride. Thank you.
"How strange it was to see men doing something beautiful. Something pointless and elegant." Tim Winton, 'Breath'
by Seahorse on Oct 15, 2009 9:15 PM EDT reply actions 0 recs
This is absolutely amazing,
and has added a vote to the Italy column of where I should spend my sabbatical. Thanks for sharing.
by WaterGirl on Oct 15, 2009 9:25 PM EDT reply actions 0 recs
Must be such a pain in the ass to live in that region...
Dammit Elk! I don't care if it's your mating season, you are disturbing my peaceful sleep! Just STFU!
by Phil H. on Oct 15, 2009 9:27 PM EDT reply actions 0 recs
yum :-)
You really can’t go wrong with these roads. Beautiful corner of the planet.
by gavia on Oct 15, 2009 10:29 PM EDT reply actions 0 recs
Thank you.
Lake Como, the climb of the Madonna, and a visit to the chapel are all on my “bucket list.”
by The Team Chef on Oct 15, 2009 10:59 PM EDT reply actions 0 recs
Funny, that term was new to me yesterday and here it is again!
by tedvdw on Oct 16, 2009 6:46 AM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
You won't be disappointed!
It really is as cool as you think it’s going to be :-)
by Tifosa on Oct 16, 2009 12:33 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
Oh lovely!
I’ve never seen inside the chapel before; I didn’t realise there was all that bikey stuff in there! I have a penchant for churches anyway, but a church full of bikes!? Now that really is something….
"If I were World Road Race Champion, I would wear black shorts. That probably has more to do with me being on the wiser side of 30 and understanding better that the decisions I make now never really go away. White shorts would not be something I'd be proud of...." - David Millar, in Rouleur.
by Albertina on Oct 16, 2009 4:36 AM EDT reply actions 0 recs
There is also the Notre-Dame des Cyclistes chapel
It’s in Labastide d’Armagnac, somewhere between Bordeaux and Pau. I’ve been there last year, it’s pretty nice. Not a lot of bikes inside, but an amazing collection of team jerseys, mostly local clubs. No photos were allowed inside, but I have a few photos of the outside I could post later if people are curious.
Age and treachery will overcome youth and skill (F. Coppi)
by MathieuG on Oct 16, 2009 8:03 AM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
check wikipedia
there’s a cycling chapel in Spain someplace too.
Winter project: start a new American religion based on cycling. Who’s donating?
ABRUZZIAM...uh oh
by Chris... on Oct 16, 2009 1:20 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
We've already got evil in JV
Evil is a formidable force so we should have lots of gods/goddesses. Maybe a network of temples around the country.
Cyclovia: Bogota www.streetfilms.org/archives/ciclovia/
by flying dog on Oct 16, 2009 2:05 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
Ok I'll do it when I get back home
I’m at work right now. Or supposed to be. Oh well, slow Friday…
Age and treachery will overcome youth and skill (F. Coppi)
by MathieuG on Oct 16, 2009 1:42 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
Ok there you go
The outside gate
Age and treachery will overcome youth and skill (F. Coppi)
by MathieuG on Oct 16, 2009 10:48 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
The chapel itself
Age and treachery will overcome youth and skill (F. Coppi)
by MathieuG on Oct 16, 2009 10:48 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
Statue reads: Mary Queen of the World, protect the Earth traveled in every direction by the cyclists loving the Lord’s beautiful nature
Age and treachery will overcome youth and skill (F. Coppi)
by MathieuG on Oct 16, 2009 10:51 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
For those who saw Hell on wheels (Hollentour)
It makes an appearance in the movie. It’s been a while since I’ve seen it, but if I’m not wrong, it’s when a priest is speaking (makes sense).
You can also google “Notre-Dame des Cyclistes” for more info.
Age and treachery will overcome youth and skill (F. Coppi)
by MathieuG on Oct 16, 2009 10:53 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
Wow
Do cyclists and their tifosi ever get married in that chapel?
by Mr 60 Percent on Oct 16, 2009 11:38 AM EDT reply actions 0 recs
Tifosi marry cyclists? You mean there's hope?!
"If I were World Road Race Champion, I would wear black shorts. That probably has more to do with me being on the wiser side of 30 and understanding better that the decisions I make now never really go away. White shorts would not be something I'd be proud of...." - David Millar, in Rouleur.
by Albertina on Oct 16, 2009 11:53 AM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
George and podium gal?
ABRUZZIAM...uh oh
by Chris... on Oct 16, 2009 1:21 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
I'm particularly green eyed about Nicolas Portal and the founder of his fan club actually!
"If I were World Road Race Champion, I would wear black shorts. That probably has more to do with me being on the wiser side of 30 and understanding better that the decisions I make now never really go away. White shorts would not be something I'd be proud of...." - David Millar, in Rouleur.
by Albertina on Oct 16, 2009 6:24 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
what you haven't started one for Kristian?
by the way, I am very sorry I failed you yesterday Albertina.
I saw him sitting in a bayside cafe enjoy the view, then I was at the starting house about two metres away….only problem is the camera….I shall go stand in the corner now….
by rbjhan on Oct 16, 2009 11:35 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah! :-(
I might forgive you. One day.
"If I were World Road Race Champion, I would wear black shorts. That probably has more to do with me being on the wiser side of 30 and understanding better that the decisions I make now never really go away. White shorts would not be something I'd be proud of...." - David Millar, in Rouleur.
by Albertina on Oct 17, 2009 4:34 AM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
I wouldn't be surprised
It would have to be a pretty small guest list, though, unless the ceremony was outside, on the grounds of the chapel.
by Tifosa on Oct 16, 2009 12:30 PM EDT up reply actions 0 recs
nice post!
i was there in 07 with my (now) wife – any woman that will say “yes” when you want to take a european vacation around a bike race is a keeper! (left the bike at home, didn’t want to push my luck)
the view looking down on bellagio is unreal…
by rowyco on Oct 19, 2009 11:43 AM EDT reply actions 0 recs
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