Glued my first tubiessssss (sorry glue stuck to the s key..)

but settled for the Barcelona’s. Built with record hubs, brand new $325. Tough to pass up. Very light too. With the tubies, the bike is about a half pound lighter than my velocity aerohead clinchers (and those aren’t exactly boat-anchors.

Well put.

And Sprinters: currently on my backup wheels but only til the team-sponsored ones on my new wheels give out prematurely. I’ve gone through a pair a year.

simplex retro-friction levers sitting in the garage parts bin should you need to complete the picture . . .

btw . . . short version of 808 test: average watts for one hour interval workout (I think it was 15 minute tempo or 6 min +1) with flashpoint 60s on bike: 245. Average watts for same workout w/808s: 212.

(Comparison done after the fact w/iBike3 analysis: the 808s were on the bike, but the profile loaded into the ibike was for the FPs. After doing the calibration runs for the 808s, I was able to switch the data after the fact. Them dimples (and the fact that Zipp builds wheels with 100kg tension on front and drive-side rear spokes) aren’t the only reason that some pre-built wheels simply are better for racing. (And . . . it’s worth pointing out that a lot of high-end wheels are hardly machine-made: all of the top end Shimano wheels are hand-built too).

and upward pointing stem in your future . . .

want an old Suntour GPX 7 speed downtube setup w Superb Pro crankset, 53-39? It’s a full groupset less wheels at this point. Also have a set of Mavic GP-4 sewup laced to Durace 8….
Just a thought

If I just look at some wheels, they break. So I love these posts.

Here is the Link

I think you would be interested in the findings.

laying low in Poland:

http://beta.velonews.com/photo/gallery/89933

Still, rolling a tubie is fairly rare (knocks wood . . .) and . . . it’s also possible to roll a clincher after a flat or blow-out.

I don’t think you can really blame the mech for Beloki’s tire rolling. I replayed that crash multiple times—and despite Beloki doing almost everything wrong (inside leg down in the corner, locking up the front wheel), the amazing thing is that he almost saved it—until he slammed that rear wheel back down at an angle which pried the tire off the rim.

Tubies supposedly never pinch flat, but they can still cut and puncture like a regular tire. My friends that ride them bring a spare tire with a base layer of glue on it. I didn’t buy a spare yet (but will), but my plan is to really only use them for racing and shorter training rides near home.

changing a tubie on the road is easier than changing a clincher on the road. Take the flatted tire off, put the spare on, inflate and go. Just don’t go bombing through corners. All you really have to carry is a spare tire or two (or, as below, maybe a can of sealant . . .)

The trouble comes when you try to patch the flatted tire. Although thanks to sealants, even that can be easier these days.

although there’s lots of makers out now.

something approaching 4 years (so, between 15-20k miles), and then I had a series of flats that happened exactly like that. Something like five before I finally did a microscopic inspection under a bright light at home to fine a tiny tiny piece of wire that was the culprit. Very annoying.

the presta valve must have a removable core. Otherwise, you’se probably s.o.l. (Unless you want to send them to my team-mate’s dad, who fixes sew-ups as sort of a hobby. But then again, he might only fix flats for his kids).

[He’s also mentioned in Fred Matheny’s beginning bike racing as an example of why you don’t really need special equipment to win time trials—since the guy won the national master’s 45+ tt sometime in the 80s wearing tennis shoes, on a commuter bike, with a multiply patched front tire.]

I digress. Once you get the valve core out, it’s easy: shake up the sealant and squirt it down the valve stem. Replace core, inflate and hope for the best.