Albertina at the Vuelta, Part 2: of the Urkiola, Pelota Fame and a Hug for Beñat Intxausti
NB, I kindly request that you read Part 1 first!
Our plan for Stage 20, which ran from Bilbao to Vitoria-Gasteiz, was to do the double whammy of start and Urkiola. This involved walking from our hotel right across town to the team buses’ parking, running all the way to the old city to Atxuri Station, jumping on the Eusktren to Durango and walking 11km from the town to near the summit of the legendary Urkiola, the cathedral of Basque cycling. We must have walked 25km in one day, at least. We set out on a bit of a wing and a prayer, hoping everything would work, and it did, despite a minor panic when we got to where we thought the station was and found a shopping centre instead. The Urkiola was baking hot, steep, and utterly glorious, and the fans passionate, good natured, and encouraging to all. I will let the pictures do this talking, as quite frankly, it is hard to put awesomeness into words.
It was totally impossible to get within touching distance of a carrot. As soon as their bus arrived, it was scrum time. It made me laugh to think back to the Scheldeprijs, when they were tucked all mournfully in the corner of the square in Antwerp, with only me showing any interest!
We gave up on the Euskies through necessity, and moved on to Movistar. You see, my main goal for the morning was to meet...no, not Lastras...

...but....FAINTING COUCH MOMENT NUMBER 1...Intxausti! I may have got a bit over-excited. I squeaked 'pleeeeaaase can I have a picture' in English, but he looked most taken aback and rather chuffed when I said 'thank you and good luck' in Basque :)
We didn't see too many other riders as we spent aaaaaaaaages waiting outside the Movistar bus, but here's Righi:
The pretty old town of Durango, gateway to the Urkiola:
There was a similar old farmhouse a little further up which was for sale. I'm tempted. It had 15 rooms...PdC party house?!
A helpful push. Some of the backmarkers were very grateful.
The other object of this trip was to satiate my second and rather more obscure sporting passion, Basque pelota. As some of you know, I write a blog on it for EITB. We went to four evenings of matches, in Bermeo, Lezama, Galdakao and Hondarribia. In Lezama, much to my utter shock, I was interviewed live on TV, with a Basque translator! I was also touched beyond words that the presenter and commentator of the pelota coverage on ETB knew about me. In addition, we were taken on a tour of EITB's headquarters in Bilbao. I won’t bore you too much here, but you’ll indulge me while I share a few piccies, yes?
I pretend to read the news on ETB. I hope you like my seriousface:
The gorgeous fishing village of Bermeo, where I saw my first ever live pelota match. The fronton (court) is in the building right by the water in the centre.
Look! Pelotaris!
In Galdakao, we went to a match which marked the retirement of local hero Oier Zearra, the chap in blue and a txapela in the centre. This was quite an event, with a rapturous capacity crowd, chanting and singing, traditional dancers and musicians and numerous presentations by friends, family and the players of the future. Thankfully Zearra won, though it got a bit tense at the end!
On the right here is ETB's main commentator, Xabier Euzkitze, who is also apparently a keen cyclist. I was most honoured to be introduced! On the left is Abel Barriola, a great player (in case anyone is interested ;)
Here, in FAINTING COUCH MOMENT NUMBER 2, is my favourite player Aitor Zubieta, with his arm around me! He was quite sweaty, but utterly utterly lovely.
Being home is not nice at all. I love the Basque Country and my desire to go back as soon as feasibly possible is overwhelming, but until I do I have the most incredible memories, memories of people, places, emotion and beauty in equal measure. Eskerrik asko Euskadi, eta laster arte!
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Holy crap
that is batshit insane kinds of steep. My legs are crying just looking at it!
Also, lovely tale on the pelota. You look like an excellent newslady
I am ready to hug the world - Tony Martin.
Peña Cabarga features some gradients that beat that, but Urkiola is not fun to climb – not to mention that you have about 5km of false flat preceding it, most of which is totally open to the elements, and with temperatures around 33-34, that’s not much fun.
by UrlaubinPolen on Sep 13, 2011 5:35 PM EDT up reply actions
awexome
"Ants don’t worry, they operate like a fantastic team, they accept obstacles and deal with them in a positive manner, they don’t complain and remain positive. An ant doesn’t work on emotion, is proactive and always chooses the ant role."
Goodness your pelota player's
a big bloke, isn’t he!
"I’m hoping for the Mortirolo-Gavia combination, then we can ride down to Bormio for ice cream." Emma Pooley on the Giro Donne
1,95, I think.
she doesn’t mention that we also managed to view all manner of injuries, or that Zearra’s retirement match also had a traditional Basque band marching in playing “Ob-La-Di Ob-La-Da” and “Yellow Submarine” for reasons beknownst to no-one.
by UrlaubinPolen on Sep 13, 2011 5:34 PM EDT up reply actions
I was thinking breadth as well as height. :-)
"I’m hoping for the Mortirolo-Gavia combination, then we can ride down to Bormio for ice cream." Emma Pooley on the Giro Donne
wow
"I’m hoping for the Mortirolo-Gavia combination, then we can ride down to Bormio for ice cream." Emma Pooley on the Giro Donne
I went to the bar to get some drinks (obviously, as that’s what one goes to the bar to do of course) when they came marching in, everybody was singing Yellow Submarine in Basque, I just figured it’s because they had some front doors open due to the heat and it was the Galdakao fiesta that night as well. But they came in and upstairs during the match as well!
Still, it made a change from the thunderous bass from some kind of dance music tent over the road that interrupted part of the match.
by UrlaubinPolen on Sep 13, 2011 6:10 PM EDT up reply actions
so if there are basques that big
why don’t they have some riders for the cobbles?
by thebongolian on Sep 14, 2011 3:04 PM EDT up reply actions
because there aren’t enough cobbled mountains to make it worth bothering with?
(there was a really good cobbled climb in Hondarribia btw)
by UrlaubinPolen on Sep 14, 2011 4:06 PM EDT up reply actions
Durango
along with its smaller twin on the other side of the Autovia (Iurreta) you may know as the home of the Emakumeen Saria and Emakumeen Bira.
Some of the more astute may also know it as the home of cult hero Eneritz Iturriagaetxebarría’s daddy’s bike shop. Unfortunately we didn’t really have time to visit said shop as it was on the other side of the town (and when we got back and might have had time our feet really didn’t consider this a viable option), but we did see some people wearing Ciclos Iturriaga kits on the climb. And these kits are extremely awesome because not only are they Eneritz kits, but they are also possibly the pinkest kits ever (David Arroyo excepted):

The ones we saw were possibly even more luminous. and all worn by men! That takes some guts.
I want one.
It's pronounced "Int-CHOW-stie"
Oh my word! Fantastic!
So sad re Eneritz’ dad’s shop….
by Sarah Connolly on Sep 14, 2011 4:24 AM EDT up reply actions
Yes, a shame. But we really couldn't walk another step! We were in PAIN!
It's pronounced "Int-CHOW-stie"
fantastic job, once again!
you’ve set the bar high for field trip reports – and field trips in general – the amount of fun you’re having is palpable. :)
that's "the amount of fun you had"
I’m afraid we have to use the past tense here.
The only good thing about returning to England is that I know how to use public transport here.
by UrlaubinPolen on Sep 13, 2011 6:12 PM EDT up reply actions
..and they can make tea. There are no more good things. I'm missing Euskadi like hell :(
It's pronounced "Int-CHOW-stie"
Fantastic reports!
I loved both part 1 and part 2 :)
And good job making it to both the start and the mountaintop finish of the same stage, especially without a car!
I can totally sympathize with your longing to be back there. Every year I pretty much spend the month of June in mourning. The only remedy is to start planning the next trip ;)
Albertina!!!
I have no words…..
"I love bike races warm up, warm down, cobbles mountains or flats."
perezbike
.
+1
Speechless.
Umm forgive my ignorance, but is pelota also known as handball? (Neither being a sport I have ever seen and never heard of pelota until you mentioned it.)
It's only really known as pelota, or more fully pelota mano in Spanish and esku pilota in Basque.
But handball kind of describes it. I suppose it’s a little like squash in premise, but you use your hands, and the court is far far bigger and only has three walls (no wall on the right)
It's pronounced "Int-CHOW-stie"
Is it related to Fives, but without the gloves?
(and the private school associations!)
by Sarah Connolly on Sep 14, 2011 7:24 AM EDT up reply actions
Similar concept but I don't think they influenced each other.
A pelota court is usually 36 metres long
It's pronounced "Int-CHOW-stie"
Loved reading this
Thanks for sharing
by shepherds_crook on Sep 14, 2011 3:28 PM EDT via mobile reply actions

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